"Dominance", as a behavior problem, means the dog is taking the "alpha" (leadership) role in the family. Unfortunately, owners miss the signs and encourage "cute" dominant behavior in pups unintentionally. It can even lead to aggressiveness in some dogs. An Alpha is not afraid to enforce his position ("submissive" dogs bite mainly to defend themselves, the pack and its territory or when hunting).

The 10 "Alpha" Commandments:      Printable Version  

1. Thou shalt eat first and control the food, and control toys and other possessions.
2. Thou shalt stare directly at one's inferiors to tell them who's boss.
3. Thou shalt be at liberty to sniff an inferior's "privates".
4. Thou shalt walk tall and carry a high, curved tail...and sit on furniture.
5. Thou shalt be the first through doorways and narrow places and up stairs.
6. Thou shalt control the movement of one's inferiors.
7. Thou shalt win all games (especially tug-of-war).
8. Thou shalt jump on inferiors' backs, roll them over or snap at them when they get out of line.
9. Thou shalt demand or disallow petting by others depending on one's mood.
10. Thou wilt be showered with petting and praise for no particular reason.

What is with that "10 Alpha Commandments" stuff? Well, those are the rules an Alpha dog (pack leader) lives by...and enforces! If you recognize a few of these behaviors, especially if they consistently occur under the same circumstances, you have an Alpha dog. Not all Alphas care about every one of these things. I've met Alphas who weren't food-possessive at all, but very possessive of toys (odd, considering food is neccessary for survival).

CAUSES

Reproduction..."Survival of the Fittest": The most pressing reason for being an Alpha is...SOMEBODY has to! Dogs live in packs to survive, and packs have a pack order, starting with the Alpha (almost always male), then the dominant female, then so on down the line. The Alpha Male will be the only one to mate with the Dominant Female. The Alpha may also mate with other females, or not. The Alpha is usually the healthiest, strongest male who is a superior "bluffer" and will not hesitate to reinforce his position. Fights occur when there is competition for this position, such as young males approaching 1 1/2-2 years of age, or a fitter dog usurping an older, less fit animal.

Food / Survival: Puppies jump up in excitement to lick your chin...but if the pup is jumping on your back, or in response to being told "no", he's assuming leadership early. Litters will show their own pack order as soon as they start competing for mom's milk...DON'T believe it when you read that the "dominance" issue doesn't surface until 1 1/2-2 years of age! Puppies begin this behavior in the litter, and with their humans slightly later. I've seen it become a recognizable "problem" to the owner as early as 6 months! IN YOUR "PACK", YOU NEED TO BE THE ALPHA!

Of course, a dog will attack "prey"...this could be a small animal, moving / noisy objects such as a blowing leaf, squeaky toy, ball or even small children (see "Children are pack members, too"). Jack Russell terriers often develop an amusing preference for rocks...perhaps becuase they are bred to dig foxes out of their dens? Fox / den, rock / earth, what's the difference?

Breed: ANY dog can be dominant, but this is more likely to happen in some breeds than others. "So why don't they breed the tendency out?" you ask. Because they WANT that quality in certain dogs...so dogs will feel independent and work alone, so dogs will face down some scary varmints, etc.

Some examples of "Dominant" breeds (and what they've been bred to do): Akitas (bear-hunting), the various herding breeds (herding, or "bossing around", other animals that typically outsize and outnumber them), Rhodesian Ridgebacks (lion-hunting), Jack Russell Terriers (fox-hunting and vermin-hunting), other terriers (vermin-hunting) and so on. BEFORE YOU BUY A DOG, RESEARCH THE BREED WITH REPUTABLE BREEDERS, VETS AND "The Complete Dog Book"...(see the "Great Books" page).

Heredity: Reputable breeders breed to strengthen or to weed out certain traits, depending on the "breed standard" and their own personal standards. They choose only the best-behaved and best-quality bitches and dogs to use and neuter those deemed "unfit for breeding". Disreputable breeders, "backyard breeders" and "puppy mills" are not as picky about the dogs they breed...ESPECIALLY THE PUPPY MILLS (who breed in quanity to sell their stock at auctions, which end up in commercial pet stores and labratories). This means they don't bother breeding out bad traits (they may not even take proper care of their bitches and litters)...they may not even care if they breed a dog with physical or mental problems! The worst mills keep their dogs confined to cages ALWAYS except when mating...I've even heard of dogs several years of age who had to be TAUGHT to go up and down stairs!

You should know EXACTLY where your dog came from and see their facilities and their other dogs. Different family lines produce different pups. Reputable breeders also begin the puppies' training and can tell you the personality of each pup. If a pup is not right for you, they should tell you so! If you decide not to buy from a breeder or don't want a purebred, then don't support those who make money from breeding inferior dogs! Visit a shelter instead and rescue one that is already living! Ask for advice about the breed mixture or individual who suits your experience and lifestyle, and spend some time with your "final contenders" before making a choice. Two disadvantages to buying a "mixed" breed are there is no way of predicting which breed's traits it will inhereit, and you don't know the dog's experience with people. Closely observe its current behavior and ask questions about possesiveness, dominance, fearfulness, etc.

"Vacancy" at the top: If you don't act like a leader, your dog will step in to assume the position! A very clear, reinforced pack structure IS security.

Territory / Possessions (incl. food): Any dog can act "dominant" at select moments...this is especially true regarding territory. ALL pack members are responsible for keeping members of other packs OUT. (General rule-of-thumb: if a dog acts dominant over 1 AND ONLY 1 THING, it may just be "particular" about that thing.)

YOU MUST BE "ALPHA"!

"Prevention is the best solution": If you make your dog follow commands to recieve food, if you don't give in to his every whim and demand, if you don't let him sleep on furniture (NEVER LET HIM SLEEP ON YOUR BED!), if you bring out a toy when you want to play and put it away when you are done, if you make your dog FOLLOW THROUGH on a command that you give, if you train your dog to move out of your way, if you DON'T ALLOW YOUR DOG TO BEG, if you only pet him when he's done something right, if you give quick, clear, firm, fair corrections when your dog does wrong, if your rules are consistent...you should be well on your way to avoiding this problem!

1. Thou shalt eat first and control the food... You eat first (make sure the dog knows you are, too). Don't give the dog table scraps. Have the dog lay down in a far corner or in another room when you eat. Don't allow the dog to beg (when he does, stop chewing and say, "No begging," as you look him in the eye). Insist that your dog sit until you lower the food bowl to the floor and say, "okay"...every time he starts to get up, take the dish up. If he won't sit after 10 minutes, put the food away and wait until the next feeding (if it's a young pup, try again in 10 minutes). This assumes your dog KNOWS "Sit"!

...and control toys and other possessions. Put toys away in a set place where your dog cannot take them at will...they are YOUR toys! When you want to play, or the dog is lying quietly, or you want to give the dog a toy in its crate before you leave the house because of his seperation anxiety, THEN you bring out a toy (or 2). YOU call the end to the game before the dog does...and PUT THE TOY AWAY. If a dog grabs some other item he is not supposed to, say, "Drop it," as you open his jaw and remove the item...DON'T PULL IT (tug-of-war)! When you DO play tug-of-war, DO YOU WIN? You should! Avoid tug-of-war with an Alpha dog. Use tug-of-war to build the confidence of a submissive or shy dog (letting them win half the time).

2. Thou shalt stare directly at one's inferiors to tell them who's boss. The dog who stares is dominant, enforcing his/her position, or about to attack! DON'T yell at your dog and rant and rave and stare at them and tower over them. DO lift your dog's chin and look directly into his eyes as you repeat his command, or stop chewing and look into his eyes when he is begging while you eat. DO get your AKITA comfortable with your eye contact early in life, when you are dominant almost by default, but DON'T make eye contact with an Akita without a well-established Alpha posistion yourself or with any Akita but your own...AKITAS take eye contact VERY seriously!

3. Thou shalt be at liberty to sniff an inferior's "privates". Don't let your dog sniff yours...push his muzzle away or walk away and say, "Off".

4. Thou shalt walk tall and carry a high, curved tail. Stand tall and confident. Don't speak to your dog in squeaky, submissive tones. Ignore your dog if he "demands" attention. Keep your tone of voice confident (women focus on lowering the pitch, too). Even a "raised voice" must sound confident and in-control (not upset, out-of-control, or with rage). Don't allow your dog to sleep on the furniture...NEVER ALLOW A DOG TO SLEEP ON YOUR BED.

5. Thou shalt be the first through doorways and narrow places and up stairs. Require your dog to sit until released at doors just as you would at the food bowl. Do not allow your dog to rush ahead of you through doorways and up stairs, or lie in your path.

6. Thou shalt control the movement of one's inferiors. Do not allow your dog to lie in your path. Teach it "Move" or "Out of the Way" by nudging him with your toe as you say it, then walking through the space he just cleared. YOU choose where your dog sleeps (NEVER THE FURNITURE!)...put him in his "spot" (his crate or bed) before you leave the house, before you go to bed at night, or when you need him to just leave you alone. DO A 20- TO 30-MINUTE DOWN ONCE PER DAY! Put your dog in a down, look at the clock, and time yourself. Every time the dog gets up, put him back RIGHT AWAY. Keep this up for 20 to 30 minutes. Begin this excersize when you are sitting in your chair and have the dog lie at your feet. When he's reliable at this, require him to lie across the room...then across the room while you move around...then across the room while you go in an out...and eventually when you stay out of the room for a bit. (NOTE: you should reward the young pup at first by giving him a treat at the END of the down, when you pop in and out of the room, etc...because at first he will feel seperation anxiety and not be just asserting himself. But once he's been successful at 1 stage, wean out the treats, only surprising him with a treat on rare occasions...KEEP TREATS IN VARIOUS PLACES AROUND THE HOUSE...if you don't grab the treat until you are giving it to him, he won't know when it's coming.)

7. Thou shalt win all games (especially tug-of-war). WIN MOST OF THE TIME...OR ALL THE TIME IF YOU'VE DISCOVERED YOU OWN AN ALPHA! Better yet, avoid tug-of-war with an Alpha dog. Sometimes it's not possible to avoid tug-of-war, for example, if your dog has arthritis and has been "prohibited" from chasing balls and other objects (which makes them "stop on a dime"). If your dog is too submissive or shy, use tug-of-war to build his confidence. Let him win half the time!

8. Thou shalt jump on inferiors' backs, roll them over or snap at them when they get out of line. DISCOURAGE JUMPING FOR ANY REASON. If your pup is trying reach and lick your chin, get down to his level, ask him to sit (if your dog knows "sit"), and pet him when he sits...when he gets excited and jumps, stand up and away and put your hands behind your back while saying, "Off." Then say, "Sit," and CALMLY praise and pet for sitting. You may need to do this repeatedly, and it won't be solved in a day or two. It is EXPECTED in a dog pack to physicaly show affection to the alpha, so it takes time to "replace" the old behavior with the new! This is not a good idea with an Alpha, however--he'll might think he's successfully "bossed" you away. (For an alpha, do not do the putting-your-hands-behind-your-back-and-standing-up routine, just make a fist and "gag" him a little with it, and / or give him a correction via a decent shake of the collar while you say, "off". Pet him when he is quiet, and not too long, saying, "good boy," once or twice...then get up and walk away.)

If a dog is too excited to stop jumping (IN GREETING), walk away (even leave the room!) and studiously ignore him for 10-15 minutes. If your dog is on-leash, you can give him a "leash correction" down and away from you (quick jerk of the leash) to get the dog off you quickly...NOT TOO HARD, PLEASE...WE DON'T WANT TO ENCOURAGE AN AGGRESSIVE REACTION, EITHER! Or you can ask the dog to sit and step on the leash so that there is BARELY slack, and the dog will be brought up short when trying to jump. You should train the dog to sit in the SAME SPOT when you come in the door (to make it habitual) or to play a game (have the toy nearby...the dog will learn pretty quickly to grab the toy when you come in). Wouldn't you much rather be greeted by a squeaky than a flying tackle?

You can also stop a dog from jumping (and avoid the "submissive" signal of turning away) by facing the dog and putting your knee up when the dog jumps. The dog will bump into your knee becuase the way his eyes are set in his head, he can't see down when he's looking up. He won't like it, and besides, it gets him NOWHERE! Some other jump-prevention methods are putting the dog in a sit or down, then stepping on the leash so that there is BARELY slack...and the dog will be brought up short as soon as he tries to rise. You should keep a leash hanging near the door at all times. If the dog is uncontrollable, and a person is already home, they should snap the leash on before you come in, when you have visitors, etc. If you'd rather practice with family members (as opposed to neighbors, small children, and strangers), get the dog good-and-trained by ringing the doorbell yourself and walking in while someone else has the dog on the leash. A dog that jumps on your back, ESPECIALLY IF HE IS SNAPPING, is showing dominant-aggressive behavior! you must walk a fine line between claiming your leadership role and not provoking an attack. Do "long downs" more often, require the dog to sit or down to be petted, AVOID situations that might require a "harsh leash correction" (the dog won't KNOW you avoided it!), FACE the dog and put your knee in the way instead of turning aside, firmly say, "Off!" and step on the leash so the dog cannot jump, put the dog in his crate or an enclosed room (that he can't destroy) until he stays calm and quiet for a good 10 minutes.

You can also perform an "Alpha roll" with your dog, if you don't do it harshly or in an out-of-control manner...use your judgement! Put the dog in a "down" and roll him firmly onto his back and hold him still by his neck and shoulders or his paws. If he "gnaws" on you or snaps, say a firm (but CALM!) "No!" and don't otherwise react. Hold him until he stops the undesired behavior. He may even whimper and yelp...don't let him up until he stops.

If you feel in danger from your dog, keep a muzzle on him when he's out of his crate...that way you can deal with your pack-position issues WITHOUT fear of a dog bite.

9. Thou shalt demand or disallow petting by others depending on one's mood, + 10. Thou wilt be showered with petting and praise for no particular reason. Don't pet your dog whenever he demands it. DON'T EVER PET A SCARED DOG TO CALM IT (this reinforces their reaction). Don't allow your pup or dog to lick your face in an "aggressive" (demanding) manner. Don't give in to your dog's whims (except to go potty, of course!). Don't play with your dog until he doesn't want to anymore (YOU end the game). DO start games at times of YOUR choosing. If you try to pet your dog and he corrects YOU (snaps at you), insist on your right to physical contact...hold his collar, place your hand on his head or back...then pet for GOOD behavior. DO groom your pet on a daily or weekly basis, depending on its breed. DO insist on finishing the job. DO get your dog used to the handling of its paws and tail while it is still a young pup.

ONLY pet your dog as praise for some behavior. (This isn't to say don't have "affectionate time" with your dog...just ask him to do something for it, even if it's just a sit, or just calling him over to you!) If your dominant dog tends to only allow petting when he wants it, keep the petting short, stopping while he STILL wants it!

Chilren are pack members, too! ALWAYS supervise a dog's interaction with small children. This is especially important in the beginning. Before you bring home a new baby, bring home items with the baby's scent so they will smell familiar. When the baby comes home, greet the dog, sit down, and let the dog CALMLY sniff the baby...praise and give him a treat or two for doing so. Don't let him on the furniture beside you. Don't ignore him and promote jealousy. Train him to recognize the baby as a pack member. Teach children not to pull and squeeze...don't let toddlers try to "pet" the dog until you can show them how to keep their hand open and not grab the soft fur...teach your child to throw a toy for the dog to chase...let the dog lie calmly with the children, no roughousing. Avoid scolding the children in front of the dog when possible. Train your dog to lie quietly at your feet when the kids are running around, especially if you have a herding animal. (This depends how he "plays"...if he simply runs with them and doesn't jump on them or nip at them, that's okay.) Always supervise dogs with small children! Don't expect dogs to regard small children as "higher-ups", because they won't--they know better.